Understanding Textile Finishes: Types, Application Methods, Ingredients, Durability, and Property Enhancements
Introduction: What Are Textile Finishes and Why Do They Matter?
Did you ever notice that a few fabrics are softer, stay wrinkle-free for much longer or are easy to keep dry? The key factor is a final phase of textile processing titled textile finishing.
Basically, textile finishing is the process of treating fabric after it is woven or knitted to make it look better, work better or feel better. Textiles with coatings and treatments can be helpful for both tasks at home and jobs.
It is thanks to finishes that materials like waterproof jackets, protective uniforms and germ-resistant sheets are usable for their designated purposes.
Here, we explain all the types of textile finishes, how you apply them, what chemicals are needed, their durability and the changes they bring to the fabric.
Classification of Textile Finishes
To understand finishes better, we can classify them in different ways:
1. Based on Purpose:
- Aesthetic finishes – Improve look and feel (e.g., softening, glazing, embossing)
- Functional finishes – Add performance (e.g., water repellency, flame retardancy, antimicrobial action)
2. Based on Durability:
- Temporary finishes – Washed out easily (e.g., starching)
- Semi-durable finishes – Last for a few washes (e.g., certain softeners)
- Durable finishes – Permanently fixed with resins or crosslinking agents (e.g., flame retardant, wrinkle-free)
3. Based on Application Method:
- Mechanical finishes – Done physically (e.g., calendaring)
- Chemical finishes – Involve chemical reactions or coating (e.g., resin finishes)
Now let’s go deeper into some of the most widely used and technically interesting finishes.
Types of Functional Textile Finishes
1. Water Repellent Finishes
Water repellent treatments help fabrics repel water but still allow air to go through them. This process doesn’t close all the pores but provides a coat on the head that allows water to roll off like drops.
Key Chemicals Used:
- Silicone emulsions
- Metallic salts (like aluminium or lead acetate)
- Wax emulsions
- Fluorocarbon-based compounds
Application Process (Typical):
- Pad – Dry – Cure sequence
- Catalyst and emulsifier may be added for durability
- Washing and soaping are done to remove residues
Advantages:
- Retains fabric breathability
- Improves softness and drape when silicone is used
Disadvantages:
- Not completely waterproof
- Some methods are not durable and lose effect after multiple washes
Common Applications:
Raincoats, outdoor jackets, umbrellas, sportswear
2. Waterproof Finishes
Waterproofing makes a fabric completely resistant to both water and air. It forms a sealed film over the surface, ideal for extreme conditions.
Key Chemicals Used:
- Natural rubber coating
- Polyvinylidene chloride (PVDC)
- Cellulose acetate
- Asphalt, pitch, or molten wax (older methods)
Common Application Techniques:
- Coating using rubber or synthetic resins
- Wax-emulsion method using aluminium acetate for cotton, wool, silk, etc.
Advantages:
Full protection against water and wind
Disadvantages:
- Can make fabric stiff or reduce breathability
- Loss of softness and natural handle
Common Applications:
Protective tents, tarpaulins, rain gear, military garments
3. Flame Retardant Finishes
These finishes slow down or prevent the ignition and spread of fire on fabrics. Essential for safety wear, especially in industries and defense.
Common Flame-Retardant Chemicals:
- Borax + Boric Acid + Sodium Phosphate
- Tetrakis Hydroxy Methyl Phosphonium Chloride (THPC)
- Pyroset CP for wool
- Phosphorus and halogen-based compounds for polyester
Process Steps (Typical):
- Pad – Dry – Cure
- Followed by washing, soaping, and softening
- Some require thermo-fixation at 180–220°C
Theories Behind Flame Retardancy:
- Coating theory – Forms a melted barrier layer
- Gas theory – Releases non-combustible gases
- Chemical theory – Dehydrates cellulose and reduces flammability
Applications:
Uniforms in fire services, defense textiles, curtains, furnishings, industrial PPE
4. Antimicrobial Finishes
These finishes protect fabrics from bacteria, fungi, and odours, keeping textiles hygienic and longer-lasting.
Types:
- Leaching type (temporary): Slowly release chemicals like triclosan, formalin, or tin-based compounds
- Bound type (durable): Chemically bind agents like PHMB, quaternary ammonium salts, or chitosan to fibre surface
- Padding or exhaustion followed by drying
- Curing to improve durability
Pros:
- Reduces smell, mould, skin irritation
- Essential for medical, sports, and undergarments
Cons:
- Leaching types may pose environmental or health risks
- Bound types may lose effectiveness after wear or washing
Used In:
Hospital bedsheets, surgical gowns, socks, innerwear, gym wear
5. UV-Protective Finishes
These protect skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR) using UV absorbers like nano zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
Benefits:
- Prevents skin damage and fading of fabrics
- Offers a higher SPF rating in summer clothing
Applied By:
Pad-dry-cure method, typically using nano-treated finishes
6. Other Notable Functional Finishes
- Anti-wrinkle finishes: Use nano silica or titanium dioxide to prevent creasing without harming fabric strength
- Anti-static finishes: Applied on synthetics using nano TiO₂, ZnO or silane to reduce static buildup
- Self-cleaning finishes: Inspired by lotus leaf effect, using nano-whiskers to repel dirt and water
Application Methods and Ingredients Used in Textile Finishing
Common Application Methods for Textile Finishes
Textile finishes are not just applied randomly — the method of application plays a critical role in how well the finish works, how long it lasts, and how the fabric behaves after treatment. Here are the most common and effective methods used in industry:
1. Padding Method
This is the most widely used method for applying chemical finishes to textiles.
How it works:
The fabric is passed through a bath containing the finishing solution and then squeezed between two rollers (padding mangles) to ensure even and controlled uptake of the chemical.
Ideal for:
- Durable press finishes
- Flame retardant finishes
- Antimicrobial finishes
- Water repellent finishes
Key Advantage:
Ensures uniform application with controlled pickup percentage (usually around 70–80%).
2. Exhaustion Method
This method involves immersing the fabric in a bath of finishing solution for an extended time, allowing the chemicals to gradually get absorbed into the fibres.
Used for:
- Softening finishes
- Antimicrobial and anti-static finishes
- Silicone-based softeners
Why it's useful:
It is better suited for fabrics that require deep penetration of chemicals, especially when the finish needs to bind at the molecular level.
3. Spraying Method
Spraying is done using nozzles that directly apply the finish onto the fabric surface.
Commonly used for:
- Water repellent or fire retardant sprays in household or retail settings
- Spot treatments on specific areas
Benefit:
Low-cost, quick, and used when a light or partial application is needed.
4. Coating Method
In coating, the finish is applied as a thick layer on the fabric surface. This is common for waterproofing where a film-forming polymer is required to block all pores.
Used for:
- Water and air-proof fabrics (e.g., tents, tarpaulins)
- Synthetic resins, PVC, rubber coatings
Result:
Completely sealed fabric surface, but may affect flexibility and breathability.
5. Foam Finishing
This is a modern, low-liquor application method where foam containing the finishing agent is applied and spread on the fabric.
Key Points:
- Saves water and energy
- Mostly used in functional and eco-friendly finishes
6. Solvent Finishing
In this method, solvents are used instead of water to dissolve the finishing agent. It is particularly helpful when water-sensitive chemicals are used.
Not commonly used in day-to-day textile processing due to environmental concerns and high cost.
Process Sequence in Chemical Finishing (Brief and Clear)
In most industrial applications — especially Pad-Dry-Cure methods — the following sequence is followed:
Pre-treatment:
The fabric is scoured and bleached to remove impurities and improve absorbency.
Padding:
The fabric is passed through a bath containing the finish (e.g., resin, silicone, antimicrobial agents), and then squeezed between rollers to ensure even application — usually 70–80% wet pick-up.
Drying:
The fabric is dried in a stenter machine or hot-air dryer at 70–120°C to remove moisture without causing migration of chemicals.
Curing:
The fabric is exposed to higher temperatures (120–180°C) to allow the chemical to crosslink or bond permanently with the fibre.
Washing and Soaping:
This removes any unfixed or excess chemicals and neutralises the residual acidity, which prevents fabric damage.
Softening and Final Drying:
A softening agent is sometimes added, followed by final drying and width setting in the stenter machine.
This sequence ensures that the finish is durable, effective, and safe for long-term use.
Common Ingredients Used in Textile Finishes
Depending on the type of finish, different chemicals or additives are used:
1. Silicone Emulsions
Used for softening, water repellency, and durability. They are compatible with many finishing agents and provide a soft, elastic feel.
2. Wax Emulsions
Used in waterproofing and to enhance gloss and hand feel, often with aluminium acetate.
3. Resins
Used for wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability, and flame retardancy. Curing helps in crosslinking them onto the fibre surface.
4. Metallic Salts
Aluminium acetate, boric acid, sodium phosphate are used in water and fire resistant finishes.
5. Catalysts
Organo-metallic salts or acids added to improve the durability of finishes by helping crosslinking during curing.
6. Nanoparticles
Nano zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and silver nanoparticles are used in UV-protective, antibacterial, and self-cleaning finishes.
Durability of Finishes and Changes in Fabric Properties
Durability of Textile Finishes: How Long Do They Last?
Not all textile finishes last forever. The durability of a finish depends on the chemical used, the application method, and whether it forms a physical coating or a chemical bond with the fibres.
We can classify finishes into three main categories based on their durability:
1. Temporary Finishes
These finishes are applied loosely and are removed after a few washes. They don’t chemically bond with the fibre.
Examples:
- Starch finish
- Basic softeners
- Some wax-based water repellents
Use Case:
They’re mainly used for temporary fabric presentation, retail garments, or for specific one-time purposes.
2. Semi-Durable Finishes
These finishes last through 5–10 washes. They’re partially bound to the fabric and show moderate resistance to laundering and wear.
Examples:
- Some antimicrobial finishes
- Non-crosslinked resins
- Softeners used in daily wear garments
Use Case:
Semi-durable finishes are suitable for fashion apparel or products with a short life cycle.
3. Durable and Permanent Finishes
These are the most powerful finishes. They form strong chemical bonds or crosslinked networks with the fibre molecules. Many are resin-based or catalysed to enhance fastness.
Examples:
- Flame retardant finishes using THPC or Proban
- Wrinkle-resistant finishes with melamine resin
- Water repellents using fluorocarbon or silicone
- Bound-type antimicrobial agents (like chitosan or PHMB)
Use Case:
These are ideal for industrial uniforms, hospital textiles, outdoor garments, and high-performance technical fabrics.
How Finishes Change Fabric Properties
The main purpose of finishing is to add value and improve performance. Let’s understand how the fabric properties are changed or enhanced by different finishes:
1. Physical Properties
Softness and Handle:
Silicones and softeners make the fabric feel smoother, silkier, and more comfortable.
Gloss and Appearance:
Wax emulsions and calendering finishes improve surface shine and visual appeal.
Thickness and Weight:
Coating and resin finishes can add weight, which may affect drape and comfort.
2. Functional Properties
Water Repellency and Proofing:
These finishes form a surface layer or penetrate the pores to stop water from entering, ideal for rainwear and tents.
Fire Resistance:
Flame retardant finishes prevent ignition and slow down the spread of fire. Essential for safety and protective textiles.
Antimicrobial Protection:
Fabrics resist bacteria, fungus, and odour, making them more hygienic, especially for hospitals and innerwear.
Anti-Static and Anti-Wrinkle:
These finishes prevent clinging and creasing, improving the garment’s performance and appearance.
3. Durability to Washing and Wear
Well-applied durable finishes show:
- Excellent wash fastness
- Resistance to abrasion and friction
- Longer lifespan of treated textiles
- However, over-curing or improper finishing can:
- Damage fibre strength
- Cause yellowing or stiffness
- Reduce fabric breathability
So proper curing temperature, chemical concentration, and fabric preparation are crucial in finish durability and property control.